Collection Details

The surcoat is said to have been worn by Oda Nobunaga. He was known for his preference for unconventional attire and behavior, which earned him the nickname “Ootsuke” (a quirky, unconventional person) (according to the “Shinchō Kōki”). This battle surcoat offers a glimpse into that aspect of his personality.

The garment mixes different materials, with black mountain bird feathers embroidered on the upper part and pleated silk woven with a Chinese floral pattern on the lower part. The swallowtail butterfly pattern on the center of the back is the Taira clan’s representative family crest (in which Oda Nobunaga is descendant upon), and is intricately crafted by embroidering and cutting each individual white feather.

A Surcoat) made from rare materials was no longer merely a practical item for protection against rain, wind, and cold. It appears to have been a fashionable item used to flaunt one’s wealth and charisma, and to showcase individuality and aesthetic sense.

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Title

Surcoat with Black Bird Feather and Swallowtail Butterfly Pattern (Jinbaori Kurotori Mo Agehacho Moyo)

Creator

Unknown

Date

16th century, Azuchi-Momoyama

Medium

Plain silk, crepe (silk), feathers, Japanese paper, etc.

Physical Dimensions

H. 38 1/4 in. (97.2 cm); W. 23 1/2 in. (59.7 cm)

Classification

Textile

Designation

Unspecified

Associated Names

Owner

Tokyo National Museum

Donor

Gift of Mr. Tsuruta Yasuo

Ascension ID

I-3478

Source

ColBase: Integrated Collections Database of the National Institutes for Cultural Heritage, Japan (https://colbase.nich.go.jp/collection_items/tnm/I-3478)

Gallery

Display HISTORY

The information on the location and viewing of the item is subject to the owner and exhibitors and might not be current.
Surcoat with Black Bird Feather and Swallowtail Butterfly Pattern
Textile

The surcoat is said to have been worn by Oda Nobunaga. He was known for his preference for unconventional attire and behavior, which earned him the nickname “Ootsuke” (a quirky, unconventional person) (according to the “Shinchō Kōki”). This battle surcoat offers a glimpse into that aspect of his personality.

The garment mixes different materials, with black mountain bird feathers embroidered on the upper part and pleated silk woven with a Chinese floral pattern on the lower part. The swallowtail butterfly pattern on the center of the back is the Taira clan’s representative family crest (in which Oda Nobunaga is descendant upon), and is intricately crafted by embroidering and cutting each individual white feather.

A Surcoat) made from rare materials was no longer merely a practical item for protection against rain, wind, and cold. It appears to have been a fashionable item used to flaunt one’s wealth and charisma, and to showcase individuality and aesthetic sense.

Read more
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Surcoat with Black Bird Feather and Swallowtail Butterfly Pattern